We rode a KTEL bus today - Greek national bus system - to Nafplio - 2.5 hours SW of Athens. This is a Peloponnessian port town that mimics the feel of a Greek isle, and is the first capital of Greece. It's a small coastal town with three castles. We probably looked a bit lost when getting off the bus and made friends with some Brits who retired here and were on the bus, returning on holiday from Indonesia because they like good dance performances. They showed us where they live and also to our hotel...that's the kindness of strangers! We climbed to the top of the Palamidi Fortress (almost 1,000 stone steps!) - it was built in the early 1700's and was a Venetian fort...now it just offers a breathtaking view of the Mediterranean. The pace here is slow. Stopped for a Kaiser bier (beers in Greece typically are served with potato chips, no complaining here). We "took a swim" as they say, in the Mediterranean - the water so unbelievably clean and warm. There are lime trees everywhere (limes the size of apples) and also orange, lemon, nut and olive trees. The Greeks all use their hands when talking, definitely decent but not as happy as you would think, living in such a beautiful area of the world. I think some resent our lives. We lit a candle for our loved ones at a beautiful Greek Orthodox church and said a prayer at the Catholic church. I think their financial crisis makes ours look like kindergarten. We are extremely safe here...our windows overlook the sea and they will remain open tonight! We are staying at a "pension" aka hotel built on the side of a huge cliff overlooking the sea. The sidewalks here, like Athens, are all made of marble because marble quarries are everywhere. I need to get ready for my Friday night date...of course we will have seafood. This is a place I could return to - quiet and relaxed and breathtaking Nafplio! We fly to Rome tomorrow. Life is good! With love, antio!